Cochin, India

Cochin is one of the three largest ports on the west coast of India handling over 5 million tons of cargo a year.  It is one of those rare places where the 20^th century and ancient civilization exist side by side with a past so rich that it has a valid claim as a museum city. 

History at Cochin is found in the most abundant quantities at Fort Cochin and in Mattancheri, southwest of the harbor.  The fort is believed to be the oldest European settlement in India, dating back to 1500.  Vasco de Gama visited Cochin, died here and was originally buried in the fort’s St. Francis Church, the oldest in India.

Fort Cochin may be old, but compared with Mattancheri, it’s an upstart.  Back in the 6^th century B.C., Kerala experienced its first immigration of Jews.  It was followed by a much bigger wave in the first century A.D. when Jews fled roman persecution in Jerusalem. There is Jewish synagogue built by Sephardic Jews in the mid 1500s and features hand-painted Cantonese floor tiles and exquisite copper plaques.  We were there in 2008 but unfortunately it was locked and we couldn’t get in, I’m hoping this time will be different, although we, again, arrive on Sunday (it is now run by the government).

 The population is about 400,000, their language is mostly Hindi or Bengali, their government is the Union Territory of India and the currency is the Indian Rupee.

A few of us hired 2 (small) cars for 4 hours, costing $15 per car, to take around Cochin.  We went to see the fishing nets, a snake charmer, the Jewish Synagogue and a museum, did some shopping and had lunch at a lovely hotel. At the Synagogue, which dates back to 1568, we saw the magnificent tile floor that had 12” square tiles from China with no two alike.  This is the oldest Jewish Synagogue in the British Commonwealth.  Apparently, there are only 3 Jewish families left in Cochin.  The snake charmer was absolutely amazing.  I heard that it’s now illegal in India so we were very lucky to find one.  Everyone on the ship was very envious. It was a very full day and we all had a great time.  Barbara bought some silk pants.  I bought a small marble elephant to match the one I bought the last time I was here.  A lot of people were buying Saris but I’m sure I would never wear it again and didn’t buy one. We had a full day and I got some good pictures – even took a movie of the snake charmer.  WOW! We have one day at sea, then Mumbai (Bombay).