Starting To Say Good Bye

                                    

Yesterday we spent the day watching the Royal Wedding of William & Kate.  Barbara & David invited several people to their suite at 10:00 in the morning to watch everyone arrive followed by the ceremony at 11:00.  Being British, and staunch Royalists, they were very excited about the marriage and wanted to share the experience.  We stayed for 2 hours then went to the “most traveled passengers” luncheon hosted by the captain.  At our table were Lance & Bill, Mark & Andrea and Michele…great table. When we got back they were just repeating what everyone had already seen.  That evening Barbara had a “farwell” party and invited about 20 people.  The choir had their final performance at 8:00 and sang "we'll meet again, don't know where, don't know when," there wasn’t a dry eye in the place.

Exactly 1 week from today we will be home...can't believe it.  Atmosphere on the ship has changed everyone is exchanging addresses, phone numbers & e-mail addresses.  Only one sea day left (Monday) then we will be in port every day until we leave in Rome.   I have packed 3/4 of one suitcase and Gary the same.  This isn't the fun part, especially trying to fit in 4 months of  souveniers.

Casablanca, Morocco

“You must remember this, a kiss is just a kiss, a sigh is just a sigh…”  Casablanca today is not the quaint provincial oasis of Bogart and Bacall.  It is a vigorous commercial giant and manufacturing center that has grown into one of Africa’s great cities; only Cairo is bigger.  And yet much of the old charm is still there if you know where to look.

The French government established a protectorate over all of Morocco in 1912, which lasted until 1956.  During that period, they greatly expanded education, communications and public welfare.  France was defeated in 1940 by Hitler’s Germany, and their colonies were administered by the Vichy regime; though officially neutral, Vichy was under Germany’s strong influence. The Casablanca conference between Churchill and Roosevelt took place here in January of 1943.  They planned the invasion of Sicily and southern Europe, and decided that the unconditional surrender of Germany was a basic condition of peace.  When the French withdrew from Morocco in 1956, they restored full control to the monarchy, and promised strong economic and diplomatic support.  Since that time the kingdom has become a strong force in arbitrating disputes for the international community.  Old and new seem to live as good neighbors in Casablanca. 

Because of the bombing in Marrakech we received a letter informing us that we maight not stop in Casablanca.  There are 150 people scheduled to take a tour to Marrakech which would be cancelled even if we do stop.  However, they have now said that we are going to dock there and have been warned to go in groups and to stay on the main streets in open areas.  Originally we were going to get a car and go to Rabat, but now we have decided to stay in Casablanca and go to the Medina (Kasbah).  The last time Gary & I were here we were very uncomfortable and felt threatened.  A few months later 9/11 happened.

We took the shuttle to town and went to the Medina.  They sell everything here, mainly caftans and artifacts of every kind.  Small wood carvings, silver bracelets, shoes (tons of shoes) and scarves.  We spent about 4 hours walking around then Gary & I headed back to the boat.  As you can see, we are back in Africa.

“Here’s looking at you , kid.”

Funchal, Madeira

Madeira and its little companion island, Purto Santo, were mentioned by the ancient Roman Author Pliny.  He know about the “Fortunate Isles,” which is what the Romans called the Canaries, and then described his mysterious “Purple Islands” as being about the right position for Madeira.  Madeira was largely left alone until more recent centuries.  Sailors from Genoa noted its position and moved on, but it was the Portuguese who reaped the reward of discovery. Prince Henry the Navigator sent many expeditions into the Atlantic in the early 15^th century and Madeira was one of his first prizes.

Grape vines were imported from Crete and Cyprus, and sugar cane from Sicily.  Many exotic plants were also introduced from ships returning from every corner of the globe.  Madeira grew into a semi-tropical paradise known as the “floating garden”.  The early colonists developed a complex irrigation system of water channels called “levadas,” which are still in use.  They carry water from the mountain tops through the terraced farms, to fields and villages further downhill.  These ingenious aqueducts assured that the local wine and sugar industries would be second to none.

We took the shuttle to town and what a breath of fresh air from the Ivory Coast.  The 6 of us walked all day and thoroughly enjoyed the island.  There were flowers everywhere and not a piece of paper on the ground.  We strolled along the marina, of course, looking at the sailboats.  The last time Gary and I were here, we met a couple that had a boat in the harbor.  They had a small kiosk on the dock selling pictures they had drawn.  The one we bought now hangs in our aft cabin on the boat.  We had lunch at a local restaurant and all had fresh fish along with wine from Madeira.  It rained for quite a while, which is common here, but most of the rain came while we were eating.  There were a lot of embroidery shops selling tablecloths, bed linens and place mats & napkins, all with beautiful patterns. Tonight we sail for Casablanca.   

Dakar, Senegal

The modern port of Dakar lies in one of the world’s most strategic locations.  It is the most westerly point in Africa, and commands the shipping lanes between Western Europe and Brazil or South Africa.  This part of West Africa is lush and green, with several important rivers in a small area.  In this land so close to the Sahara, everything of significance happens along the riverbanks.

The trade in slaves was the most lucrative part of their commerce.  More than 40 million people were eventually shipped to the Americas (mostly South America) from Goree and other ports.  The Ile de Goree, just off Dakar, was the site of one of the first French settlements in Africa and a slaving center from the early 19^th century.  The administrative capital of France’s West African colonial empire, Dakar was a trading site for gold, ivory & leather.

Goree is an attractive place today, with multi color houses from the 18^th century, set off by brightly painted doors and window frames.  Balconies and terraces are blanketed with lovely flowers of every color.  No motor vehicles are allowed on the island.  It is also possible to visit the Slave’s House, as well as the Fortress.  The Historical Museum does an impressive job of recalling the repugnant facts of the slave trade.

Not only were Gary & I here before and experienced the “Door of no Return” on Ile de Goree, but during my working days, my company did an entire program for school age children on the “Middle Passage.” Bill Pinkney, who was the captain of the sailboat that made the trip from Ile De Goree to Brazil, was also the captain of the replica of the Amistad, the infamous slave ship.

Eight of us took the shuttle to the market which is the drop-off place.  We walked around and found it less than endearing.  It is a very dangerous place and already we heard of one couple that had their camera stolen.  We took 2 taxi’s to a village close by and stayed there for about 1 ½ hours.  There was an abundance of leather goods, jewelry and, of course, wood carvings.  There were so many photo opportunities, but they wouldn’t let us take pictures and got very angry if we did.  We left at 9:00 and got back just after 1.  We went to the dining room, had lunch and Barbara, Tess and I went off the ship to look at the crafts set up next to the ship.  Found much of the same we had already seen and I came back after a few minutes. 

The ship leaves Dakar at 5:00 and will pass Ile de Goree on our starboard side.  Once we clear the Bay of Goree, we will alter course to a northerly heading. Tomorrow we will be parallel to the Mauritania coast on our way to Madeira.  Madeira will be very welcome after the Ivory Coast.

Along The Way

We have only 2 weeks before our voyage comes to an end.  Our trip has taken us to some of the most interesting and exotic ports and we have seen many fascinating sights on this journey around the world. We have often said that it’s not the places you have visited but the people you meet along the way.  We have made some great friends since leaving Florida in January, some we met in 2008 and those we met on this cruise.

We met Anna and Joaquin (above) through Barbara & David.  They met last year on the Aurora and became friends.  We took to them immediately and have enjoyed their company immensely.  Joaquim is Spanish and Anna is from the Netherlands. They live in Barcelona and promised that, when we dock, they will take us to the best restaurant for Paella (sp). They leave the ship in Barcelona.

Andrea & Mark (above) are from Scottsdale, Arizona.  They were both in the medical profession but are now retired. They are a great couple and a lot of fun.  Their cabin is a few doors down from ours.  It would be nice to continue our friendship.  My cousin also has a home in Scottsdale, maybe we will visit. 

Barbara and David (above) are from England but live in Cypress for 6 months each year.  David still works but is trying to sell his business.  They did a world cruise last year although on another ship, The Aurora. She is a darling lady and we have enjoyed their company.

Carol (above) is a terrific lady that grew up a block from Gary.  She’s a Chicagoan and has a daughter in Highland Park.  She was kind enough to lend us her overnight case to take on safari.  It will be nice to have to have dinner when we are home and reminisce about this glorious trip.

Sonia (below) is another wonderful lady that was born in Casablanca but now resides in Canada.  She hasn’t been back to Morocco in 35 years and, on this trip, we will be in Morocco in less than a week. We exercise at the same time and see each other every morning.  I hope we will see her again.

We met Lance and Bill (below) on our trip in 2008.  We only spoke once during that entire cruise and only said “hello” when passing in town or on the ship.  We got to know each other on this trip and found that we missed a lot 3 years ago.  They have become great friends and Lance even loaned us his camera when we went on safari.  They live in Southern Illinois very near St. Louis.

Michele (below) is the Hotel Manager on the ship.  We met him during our stop in Equador and have been close since then.  Both he and Gary are motorcycle enthusiasts and Gary took to him immediately. He is has been a wonderful friend and we will miss him very much.

Tema, Ghana

Before 1961 Tema was just a small fishing village but then the powers that be decreed that it would become Ghana’s principal economic harbor, putting the most modern facilities within reach of Accra, the capital. Nearly everything about Ghana is spectacular.  It is one of those places in Africa where people have always wanted to live.  The oldest pottery in the area dates from as early as 4000 B.C.  From the earliest times, life here has seen the extremes of good and bad in human experience. For a relatively small place, Ghana has made a huge impact on the outside world.  From floods of gold, to appeals for freedom and harmony, the people of Ghana have contributed to a more vigorous cosmos.  It’s no accident that they are proud to show their land to others.

Eight of us hired a car to take us to Accra.  It is 20 miles from the ship and took us 2 hours in a van with no air conditioning.  The temperature was about 100 and we were all wringing wet and frustrated by the time we got there.  Barbara wanted to go shopping, but Gary & couldn't bear the thought of standing in those kiosks for 3 hours, after that awful drive, looking for African shirts & wood carvings.  The roads are dirt and in disrepair and the people we saw were living in abject poverty. There is also a big presence of Yellow Fever both here and in Togo.

We saw a casket maker that makes caskets in various shapes & sizes.  For instance, if someone had always wanted to fly, the casket would be in the shape of an airplane.  We saw a cow, a coke bottle, a fish, a lobster, a pineapple & a truck – all caskets. Very strange! We decided to go back to the ship but stopped at a lovely hotel en route to get a coke. We now have 2 days at sea before reaching Dakar, Senegal.  This evening we head westerly and will parallel The Ivory Coast.

Lome, Togo

Lome is the capital and largest city of Togo.  It is located on the Gulf of Guinea and is the country’s administrative and industrial center and its chief port.  The city exports coffee, cocoa, copra and palm kernels.  It also contains an oil refinery. Some of the most popular tourist attractions are the Grand Market and the Voodoo (Fetish) Market.

Eight of us took the shuttle to town and walked around the market.  We had no desire to see the voodoo ceremony where they cut the head off a chicken.  The Fetish Market specializes in the traditional ingredients used by sorcerers, including porcupine skin, wart hog teeth and bird skulls. I found out later from someone who went to the Voodoo village, that it was very put-on and no chicken had his head cut off.   It was about 100 degrees in the shade and we couldn’t wait to get back to the ship.  I did buy another mask and now have one from Indonesia & one from Africa.