Cochin, India

Cochin is one of the three largest ports on the west coast of India handling over 5 million tons of cargo a year.  It is one of those rare places where the 20^th century and ancient civilization exist side by side with a past so rich that it has a valid claim as a museum city. 

History at Cochin is found in the most abundant quantities at Fort Cochin and in Mattancheri, southwest of the harbor.  The fort is believed to be the oldest European settlement in India, dating back to 1500.  Vasco de Gama visited Cochin, died here and was originally buried in the fort’s St. Francis Church, the oldest in India.

Fort Cochin may be old, but compared with Mattancheri, it’s an upstart.  Back in the 6^th century B.C., Kerala experienced its first immigration of Jews.  It was followed by a much bigger wave in the first century A.D. when Jews fled roman persecution in Jerusalem. There is Jewish synagogue built by Sephardic Jews in the mid 1500s and features hand-painted Cantonese floor tiles and exquisite copper plaques.  We were there in 2008 but unfortunately it was locked and we couldn’t get in, I’m hoping this time will be different, although we, again, arrive on Sunday (it is now run by the government).

 The population is about 400,000, their language is mostly Hindi or Bengali, their government is the Union Territory of India and the currency is the Indian Rupee.

A few of us hired 2 (small) cars for 4 hours, costing $15 per car, to take around Cochin.  We went to see the fishing nets, a snake charmer, the Jewish Synagogue and a museum, did some shopping and had lunch at a lovely hotel. At the Synagogue, which dates back to 1568, we saw the magnificent tile floor that had 12” square tiles from China with no two alike.  This is the oldest Jewish Synagogue in the British Commonwealth.  Apparently, there are only 3 Jewish families left in Cochin.  The snake charmer was absolutely amazing.  I heard that it’s now illegal in India so we were very lucky to find one.  Everyone on the ship was very envious. It was a very full day and we all had a great time.  Barbara bought some silk pants.  I bought a small marble elephant to match the one I bought the last time I was here.  A lot of people were buying Saris but I’m sure I would never wear it again and didn’t buy one. We had a full day and I got some good pictures – even took a movie of the snake charmer.  WOW! We have one day at sea, then Mumbai (Bombay).

Bay of Bengal

The Bay of Bengal is the largest bay in the world, forming the northwestern part of the Indian Ocean.  It resembles a triangle in shape and is bordered by Bangladesh, the Indian state of West Bengal down to the state of Tamil Nadu, India, Sri Lanka to the West, Burma (Myanmar), the Andaman Islands and the Nicobar Islands to the east.

The ship informed us that there will be a Full Passenger & Crew Piracy Drill on March 19^th.  In the case of an attack there are certain things we need to know regarding our defense.  Too bad it won't involve giving Gary & I a shotgun (we have both shot competition trap for several years).

We have three days at sea before reaching Cochin, India.

Port Blair, Andaman Islands

The Andaman and Nicobar Archipelagoes lie over 600 miles off the coast of India in the Bay of Bengal.  They are a group of 572 islands, islets and rocks that are big and small, inhabited and uninhabited.  Covered in dense forest, the island is home to innumerable exotic birds and animals as well as a profuse growth of ferns and orchids.

The first Europeans settled here in the 18^th century, but malaria and hostile natives put a prompt end to the colony established by Lt. Archibald Blair.  The British returned, however, in the 19^th century, and like Australia, the Andaman Islands became a penal colony.  The archipelago was the final destination for Indian political prisoners.

The islands were occupied by the Japanese during world War II.  Though, tragically, many islanders were killed because of their alleged ties to the British.  By necessity the Andamans became self-sufficient in the area of fool production and constructed more roads.  After the war, British rule was restored, but the Andaman and Nicobar Islands, along with the rest of India, gained independence on August 15, 1947.

Today a Union Territory of India, the Andaman Islands have long been popular with divers and surfers.  The archipelago boasts crystalline waters, extensive coral reefs and, at Little Andaman Island, some of the finest waves in the Indian Ocean.  Port Blair, the territorial capital, is a pleasant and easygoing town.

We arrived around 12 noon and took the shuttle to “town.”  Of all the places we have been, unfortunately this was the worst.  The rain was torrential and the garbage was everywhere.  A friend of mine once said “when you go to India, look up.”  Enough said.  We got off the bus in the middle of a river and made our way up the street a few blocks.  After only 30 minutes we decided to go back to the ship.  We made our way back to where the shuttle parked which was not an easy task.  The streets were flooded and there was only an occasional piece of sidewalk.  By the time we got on the bus we were soaked to the skin.  Barbara & David never even got off the bus.   We leaved at 7:00 tonight heading southwest through the Bay of Bengal. 

Malacca Strait

The Strait of Malacca is a narrow, 500 mile long stretch of water between Peninsular Malaysia (West Malaysia) and the Indonesian island of Sumatra.  From an economic and strategic perspective the Strait of Malacca is one of the most important shipping lanes in the world, equal or greater than the Suez Canal or the Panama Canal.  The strait is the main shipping channel between the Indian Ocean and the Pacific Ocean, linking major Asian economies such as India, China, Japan, South Korea and Taiwan.  Over 50,000 vessels pass through the strait per year, carrying about one-quarter of the world’s traded goods including oil, Chinese manufacturers and Indonesian coffee.  About a quarter of all oil shipments carried by sea pass through the strait, mainly from Persian Gulf suppliers to Asian markets such as China, Japan, and South Korea.  In 2006 an estimated 15 million barrels per day were transported through the strait.  Large oil tankers that exceed the maximum size will typically use the Lombok Strait instead.  At Phillips Channel near Singapore, the Strait of Malacca narrows to 1.5 nautical miles wide, creating one of the world’s most significant traffic chokepoints.  We are now on high alert and will be for the next 3 weeks as pirates have been in these waters.  Great!

Kuala Lumpur

Malaysia, long known to the ancient mariners as “the land where the winds meet” has lured travelers since the dawn of time.  Seafaring Malays settled the seaboard and traded with the early Indian, Arab and Chinese traders who sailed to her shores with the monsoon winds in search of gold, spices and jungle exotica.  In her infant years she was a wretched town.  Of the 87 miner-prospectors who poled up to where the Klang and Gambok rivers meet, 70 died from fever and tiger attacks the first month.  They called the settlement Kuala Lumpur, “muddy estuary.”  It was an isolated outpost, surrounded by hostile jungle.  But the mines produced and the town grew.

Malaysia today is a land of great variety with varied landscapes and areas of jungle.  The Malay peninsula lies halfway between India and China.  It is surmised that the early traders met and bartered goods in the sheltered places along the straits of Malacca.  They brought their religion with them and their way of life thus Hinduism and Buddhism  have left cultural traces which have become absorbed into the Malay life.

We took the bus in from our dock which was a ride of 1 ½ hours and they dropped us in the downtown area. It was a costly ride as we were charged $39 pp by the ship.  We’ll never do that again!  Barbara & David and Gary & I spent the day together in the city.  The architecture here is awesome and they boast the tallest buildings (their twin towers) in the world, second only to the tower in Dubai. The bus was returning at 3:00 so we didn't have much time to go out of the city.  The currency is "ringgit" and it's 3 to $1.00 U.S., population is about 25 million and the government is a Constitutional Monarchy.  When we leave we will head northwesterly towards the Stratit of Malacca.

Update

The fellow that was air lifted off the ship a couple of weeks ago (Ron & Denise) returned to the ship in Singapore.  They joined us at dinner last night told us what had happened.  Apparently they said he had diverticulitis.  We were surprised that it would cause so much internal bleeding and along with the 4 transfusions he had on the ship, he had to have 3 more when he reached Perth.  He was very near death when he left the ship because he lost so much blood. When Denise left to meet him, she only took half of her things hoping to rejoin the ship.  As Singapore marks the half way point of the trip, they were able to come back – what a great place to recuperate.   

Singapore

Strategically poised at the tip of the Malayan peninsula, just over 1 degree north of the equator, Singapore is the dynamic trading crossroads of East and West.  Once a sleepy fishing village known as Temasek, the island got its name in the 14^th century when a visiting Srivijayan prince saw an animal he believed to be a lion and renamed the island Singa Pura, the Lion City. Destiny took a hand in 1819 when a British East India Company official, Sir Stamford Raffles, claimed Singapore as a regional base.  Its fine natural harbor and favorable location made it ideal as a trading post with a free trade policy that attracted merchants and migrants from Malayam Indonesia, China, India, the Middle East and Europe.  Today, Singapaore has been transformed into a cosmopolitan center for commerce and industry bustling with communications and transportation networks; immaculate streets and ultra-modern skyscrapers.  With a population of about 4.8 mmillion – of which is 77 percent Chinese, 14 percent Malays (indigenous/native), 8 percent Indians and 1 percent others, Singapore enjoys multi-racial harmony.  By the way, the Raffles hotel is where the “Singapore Sling” was invented.

We were docked far away from town and had to take a shuttle in.  It took us 45 minutes to reach the city.  From our drop-off place, the Hyatt Hotel, we walked to the subway station and took the train to Chinatown.  That was an experience in itself.  Throngs of people crowed the stations many levels.  It was easy to find our way around as everything is color-coded.   It cost us $2. Each with $1. being a deposit that would be returned at the end of our trip.  We spent the day walking around Chinatown and shopping.  We had lunch of chicken & pork fried rice along with some Peking duck & shrimp at a great  restaurant.  We just made it on to the last bus which left at 3:30.  People came on with 2 & 3 bags full of everything imaginable.  Do they have the stuff here!  Far, far too numerous to name, but think of every trinket or Oriental knick-knack you have ever seen then quadruple it.  Two & three camera stores on every block (although none with international warranties).  Another great day.  Tomorrow Kuala Lumpur.