Sunday, May 15, 2011

Time To Say Good Bye...What An Incredible Trip!


We had the most amazing time and will never forget this fantastic voyage. We sailed about 35,000 miles and took well over 3,500 pictures.  What an adventure!




Not The Fun Part

Packing, of course, was horrendous.  Although I did buy a few things, we were limited to 50 lbs. per suitcase with a 2 suitcase per person limit (or so I thought).  We were careful not to go over the weight limit and had borrowed a portable scale to be sure.  Some people had between 5-12 pieces of luggage so, I guess, we were pretty compact.  We were exactly the right weight and only had to leave behind a few bottles/cans.  We would be on the first bus which left at 6:45 in the morning.  And so the nightmare began when I awoke at 5:00 am. It took about 1 hour to get to the airport from the port, our flight was at 11:30.  We went through 3 checkpoints before finally reaching our gate which, by the way, was a bus ride away. When checking our luggage, we were told that we were only allowed 1 suitcase each.  What a shock!  Apparently, on international flights, they now only allow one unless you fly first class.  We had to pay $100 to take the other 2 bags.  Our flight took 10 hours but at least it was direct to Chicago.

Portofino, Italy

The beautiful town of Portofino lies along the coast of the Italian Riviera.  This region, known as Liguria, is particularly beautiful, since the alpine foothills seem determined to crowd the beach into the sea.  Parts of the coast are so rugged that it is literally easier to travel between towns by boat than by road.  The Portofino promontory is especially attractive, with a profusion of pine, cypress and olive trees.  Hiking and nature trails abound.  The Ligurian people are hard workers and cultivate their small farms intensively, but since they have such difficulty making a living from the soil, the sea has always provided a magnificent alternative.  Among the long line of seafarers from here, we can list not only Columbus, but Amerigo Vespucci and Andrea Doria, who was the Admiral that led the Genoese fleet against the Turkish navy and the Barbary Pirates with great success.  Portofino lies along the so called Riviera de Levante, between Genoa and Tuscany.  Since the time of the Romans, local farmers have produced fine olives, grapevines, vegetables, fruit and all kinds of flowers, especially roses and carnations.  Liguria’s special pasta sauce is pesto.  Fresh basil leaves are pounded with a mortar and pestle (hence the name) together with garlic, pine nuts, and pecorino cheese, then mixed with olive oil.  Riviera natives insist that one needs the fine local oil and basil to produce a really “perfect” pesto. 
Gary and I took the tender in and as soon as we got there we were in awe of the beauty of this amazing port.  It’s very small and could probably be seen in ½ day.  While Monte Carlo/Monaco was geared mostly to power boats, Portofino is all sail and built around the most picturesque harbor.  While we were there they were practicing for the “Expresso Cup” race to be held in a few days.  The boats were all 70’-80’ long with all teak decks and magnificent sails.  It will take a lot to get Gary back on the tender.
We spotted a narrow stone staircase and decided to take it to wherever it would lead. As it turned out, we ended up on the top of another small mountain overlooking the town below.  There was a castle at the top along with a church and very old cemetery.  It took us about ½ hour to make it to the top and I no longer felt guilty about not exercising before we left this morning.  When we returned to the harbor, we went down a steep slopping stone path (easier than the stairs) and walked through the town for a while.  There were many outdoor cafes along with several designer boutiques and a few souvenir shops.  Flowers were everywhere and the entire setting was too beautiful to describe.

This was our last stop, so sad, and we had to get back to the ship to finish packing.  The entertainment this evening  is the “Texas Tenors” and they are fantastic, truly the best show we have seen on the ship. Dinner saw everyone exchanging addresses , phone numbers & e-mail addresses with lots of hugging and tears.  A lot of camaraderie develops when you eat, drink, tour, swim, sail. laugh & cry with the same people for 4 months.  We will miss our friends but will certainly try to keep in touch. Tomorrow night we will be home – can’t believe it.


Thursday, May 5, 2011

Monte Carlo/Monaco


Monte Carlo is the playground of the rich and famous.  Sleek yachts grace the harbor.  Boutiques offer the latest fashions and jewelry from the most prestigious couturiers in Europe.  Cafes, cabarets and the elegant Casino throb with nightlife.  Monte Carlo is also the modern district of the principality of Monaco.  The modern Xanadu sits on a rocky promontory above the old port of Monaco and the dazzling harbor.  Monte Carlo sprang to life in 1866 and hit full stride with the opening of the Casino, designed by Charles Garnier, whose credits include the Paris Opera.  Today, Monte Carlo is one of the most vibrant and fascinating ports of call in the entire world.  Monte Carlo lies at the heart of the Riviera.  Stunning scenery and charming seaside resorts are to be found in either direction along the Golden Corniche.
This is definitely the most beautiful city we have ever seen.  Our first time here and can’t believe we have missed it all these years.  We left at 9:30 and Gary & I found the Yacht Club of Monaco, whose president is Prince Albert, we have never seen such elegance in a yacht club.  Of course, only the rich and famous belong and it shows.  They were lovely to us, showed us around the entire club and even gave us two books. One on the yacht club and one on the “Tuiga,” an all wooden sail boat which was built in 1909 and still races.  It was bought by Prince Albert and we had the pleasure of a private tour by its captain.
From there we walked up to the Palace which was on the very top of a small mountain and watched the changing of the guard.  There were several narrow streets filled with cafés serving everything from baguettes & pizza to bowls of mussels & spaghetti (Gary had the mussels, I had the pizza). We walked up & down the streets for hours and got back to the boat at 4:00.  We sail at 6:00 for Portofino, our last stop.

Wednesday, May 4, 2011

Toulon, France

Located in the Provence-Alpes-Cote-d’Azur region, Toulon is an important port in southern France.  Apart from being a major French Naval Base, Toulon is also an important industrial center; naval and aeronautical construction, fishing, wine making, shoe manufacturing and electronic equipment production all take place in the region. Even the flavors of traditional Provencal cooking speak of this abundance: garlic and olive oil, truffles and almonds, wonderful herbs like savory, rosemary, thyme, bay, basil and safe. Historically, the region has been inhabited at least as far back as the 7th century BC.  Gradually the name of the town evolved to Toulon.  The Provence region became part of France in 1486 and Charles VIII first established the naval port beginning in 1494.  Toulon continued to be significant to military strategy and campaigns through to the 20th century.  As of 1974 Toulon became the administrative center and is full of its own personal character with narrow streets, small squares and numerous fountains.




Six of us walked into town together and went through the outdoor market, shared a cup of tea/coffee, and walked around the square. We soon split up and Gary & I went to the Maritime Museum while Barbara shopped.  David found a seat and waited patiently for his wife. 


These adorable sailors asked me to take a picture of them (that's a switch), they were great.

Gary & I  spent about 1 ½ hours at the museum and found it to be a really terrific naval museum. Afterwards, we walked along the waterfront looking at the sailboats and had lunch at one of the outdoor cafes.  It was a beautiful day, again no clouds and about 75.  Tonight we sail for Monte Carlo and the day after we dock in Portofino which is our last stop.


Tuesday, May 3, 2011

Barcelona, Spain



Although it is one of Spain’s most lively and dynamic cities, Barcelona is really not Spanish at all.  As the capital and cultural hub of the autonomous region of Catalonia, the city has a long and glorious history all its own.  The Catalan language is similar to Spanish, but also has much in common with southern French dialects.  Catalonia was a leading trading power in the Mediterranean during the 14th and 15th centuries, with enterprising merchants and bankers, and no feudal remnants whatsoever.  United with the Kingdom of Aragon in the 12th century the region became part of Spain in 1469 with the marriage of Ferdinand and Isabella.  Today Barcelona is a bustling and cosmopolitan place, a center of experimentation in Politics and the Arts.
We love Barcelona! It is one of the most beautiful cities in the world.  We walked up Las Ramblas, which is a walking street filled with mimes, flower stalls and cafes.  It was a beautiful day, about 75 degrees and not a cloud in the sky.  Antonio Gaudi designed a magnificent church in 1883 that lives up to its name…Gaudy, it's one of the really amazing things to see to Barcelona but is yet to be completed.  Our friends Anna & Joaquin are leaving the boat here, this is their home. They treated us, along with Barbara & David and Carole, to a true Spanish lunch of “paella” before saying “good-bye.”  Below is a picture of them with Gary taken on the terrace of their apartment. We will miss them very much and hope to stay in touch.  We will again visit Barcelona and Anna & Joaquin.  Their granddaughter is an exchange student in River Forest and we promised to call and take her to dinner.


Monday, May 2, 2011

New Propeller

Gary just bought a new prop for his boat, packing may be a problem.

Gibraltar


Although it is less than three square miles in area, the Rock of Gibraltar has become a symbol of durability and permanence.  With its strategic location at the western entrance of the Mediterranean, “the Rock” offers great value as a military strong point.  There is little wonder why it has been such a great source of contention over the centuries.  Europe is only eight miles from Africa at this point, and the Straits are 36 miles long.  Whoever controls Gibraltar and the harbor at its base is in a good position to control the passage between Atlantic and Mediterranean waters.  Despite the short distance across the strait, there is a definite cultural separation between the Mediterranean-Arabic culture to the south and the prevailing Christian European on the north, though regular ferry service allows easy travel.  The rock itself is a natural fortress 1,396 feet high, with a sheer vertical face to the east.  Today the town has a population of about 30,000 inhabitants.  Its ethnic mix reflects the history of its strategic crossroad: Spaniards, Moors, Arabs and British.

Gibraltar is also the site of the Ape’s Den, home of the famous Barbary Apes.  Actually tailless monkeys, the Apes are native to this prong of land, but not to the rest of the Spanish mainland.  Legend has it that Britain will retain the Rock as long as the Apes live here.  At one point during the War, they seemed to be dying out.  Fearful of poor morale at a critical time, Winston Churchill gave the legend a bit of help by bringing in ape-reinforcements from North Africa in 1944.  Today they number about 200.

Six of us hired a minivan to take us on a tour of the island.  We have been here several times before but haven’t gone to the top of the Rock since the first time about 30 years ago. Things are much more expensive here as the currency is now the Euro. Madeira was the same, but then we were back in Africa (Morocco) for one day and, once again, everything was a bargain.  Fortunately, for Gary, it’s Sunday and all the stores are closed. 


Gibraltar is really beautiful.  Our first stop was the “Pillars of Hercules,” (the ancients referred to the Straits as "The Pillars of Hercules), we then went to see the Barbary Apes and one jumped on Gary’s shoulder.  One girl wanted to get a picture with the small one on her shoulder so she backed up to where he was sitting and our driver enticed him with a couple of nuts.  No sooner did he do that when the mother (huge monkey) jumped from the ground on to her head.  We were laughing so hard I barely got the picture.  We also went to St. Michael’s Cave which displayed fantastic stalactites with steps leading from one cavern to another.  A cable car goes to the top of the rock but we went by car.  At the top is the site of a WWII gun emplacement for views of Africa, Spain and the Mediterranean. We also saw the WWII tunnels.  Our tour was about 2 ½ hours and we finished about 3:30.  Looking for a place to eat we came across a beautiful cemetery with those that died in the battle of Trafalgar in 1805. It was just beautiful. We then found a lovely pub and had a traditional English dinner. We walked back to the boat and got back at 7:10.  We had just 20 minutes to spare. It was a wonderful day. Tomorrow is our last day at sea, we are in port each day after that and dock in Civitavecchia (the port of Rome) Saturday, May 7th.