Time To Say Good Bye...What An Incredible Trip!

We had the most amazing time and will never forget this fantastic voyage. We sailed about 35,000 miles and took well over 3,500 pictures.  What an adventure!

Not The Fun Part

Packing, of course, was horrendous.  Although I did buy a few things, we were limited to 50 lbs. per suitcase with a 2 suitcase per person limit (or so I thought).  We were careful not to go over the weight limit and had borrowed a portable scale to be sure.  Some people had between 5-12 pieces of luggage so, I guess, we were pretty compact.  We were exactly the right weight and only had to leave behind a few bottles/cans.  We would be on the first bus which left at 6:45 in the morning.  And so the nightmare began when I awoke at 5:00 am. It took about 1 hour to get to the airport from the port, our flight was at 11:30.  We went through 3 checkpoints before finally reaching our gate which, by the way, was a bus ride away. When checking our luggage, we were told that we were only allowed 1 suitcase each.  What a shock!  Apparently, on international flights, they now only allow one unless you fly first class.  We had to pay $100 to take the other 2 bags.  Our flight took 10 hours but at least it was direct to Chicago.

Portofino, Italy

The beautiful town of Portofino lies along the coast of the Italian Riviera.  This region, known as Liguria, is particularly beautiful, since the alpine foothills seem determined to crowd the beach into the sea.  Parts of the coast are so rugged that it is literally easier to travel between towns by boat than by road.  The Portofino promontory is especially attractive, with a profusion of pine, cypress and olive trees.  Hiking and nature trails abound.  The Ligurian people are hard workers and cultivate their small farms intensively, but since they have such difficulty making a living from the soil, the sea has always provided a magnificent alternative.  Among the long line of seafarers from here, we can list not only Columbus, but Amerigo Vespucci and Andrea Doria, who was the Admiral that led the Genoese fleet against the Turkish navy and the Barbary Pirates with great success.  Portofino lies along the so called Riviera de Levante, between Genoa and Tuscany.  Since the time of the Romans, local farmers have produced fine olives, grapevines, vegetables, fruit and all kinds of flowers, especially roses and carnations.  Liguria’s special pasta sauce is pesto.  Fresh basil leaves are pounded with a mortar and pestle (hence the name) together with garlic, pine nuts, and pecorino cheese, then mixed with olive oil.  Riviera natives insist that one needs the fine local oil and basil to produce a really “perfect” pesto. 

Gary and I took the tender in and as soon as we got there we were in awe of the beauty of this amazing port.  It’s very small and could probably be seen in ½ day.  While Monte Carlo/Monaco was geared mostly to power boats, Portofino is all sail and built around the most picturesque harbor.  While we were there they were practicing for the “Expresso Cup” race to be held in a few days.  The boats were all 70’-80’ long with all teak decks and magnificent sails.  It will take a lot to get Gary back on the tender.

We spotted a narrow stone staircase and decided to take it to wherever it would lead. As it turned out, we ended up on the top of another small mountain overlooking the town below.  There was a castle at the top along with a church and very old cemetery.  It took us about ½ hour to make it to the top and I no longer felt guilty about not exercising before we left this morning.  When we returned to the harbor, we went down a steep slopping stone path (easier than the stairs) and walked through the town for a while.  There were many outdoor cafes along with several designer boutiques and a few souvenir shops.  Flowers were everywhere and the entire setting was too beautiful to describe.

This was our last stop, so sad, and we had to get back to the ship to finish packing.  The entertainment this evening  is the “Texas Tenors” and they are fantastic, truly the best show we have seen on the ship. Dinner saw everyone exchanging addresses , phone numbers & e-mail addresses with lots of hugging and tears.  A lot of camaraderie develops when you eat, drink, tour, swim, sail. laugh & cry with the same people for 4 months.  We will miss our friends but will certainly try to keep in touch. Tomorrow night we will be home – can’t believe it.

Monte Carlo/Monaco

Monte Carlo is the playground of the rich and famous.  Sleek yachts grace the harbor.  Boutiques offer the latest fashions and jewelry from the most prestigious couturiers in Europe.  Cafes, cabarets and the elegant Casino throb with nightlife.  Monte Carlo is also the modern district of the principality of Monaco.  The modern Xanadu sits on a rocky promontory above the old port of Monaco and the dazzling harbor.  Monte Carlo sprang to life in 1866 and hit full stride with the opening of the Casino, designed by Charles Garnier, whose credits include the Paris Opera.  Today, Monte Carlo is one of the most vibrant and fascinating ports of call in the entire world.  Monte Carlo lies at the heart of the Riviera.  Stunning scenery and charming seaside resorts are to be found in either direction along the Golden Corniche.

This is definitely the most beautiful city we have ever seen.  Our first time here and can’t believe we have missed it all these years.  We left at 9:30 and Gary & I found the Yacht Club of Monaco, whose president is Prince Albert, we have never seen such elegance in a yacht club.  Of course, only the rich and famous belong and it shows.  They were lovely to us, showed us around the entire club and even gave us two books. One on the yacht club and one on the “Tuiga,” an all wooden sail boat which was built in 1909 and still races.  It was bought by Prince Albert and we had the pleasure of a private tour by its captain.

From there we walked up to the Palace which was on the very top of a small mountain and watched the changing of the guard.  There were several narrow streets filled with cafés serving everything from baguettes & pizza to bowls of mussels & spaghetti (Gary had the mussels, I had the pizza). We walked up & down the streets for hours and got back to the boat at 4:00.  We sail at 6:00 for Portofino, our last stop.

Toulon, France

Located in the Provence-Alpes-Cote-d’Azur region, Toulon is an important port in southern France.  Apart from being a major French Naval Base, Toulon is also an important industrial center; naval and aeronautical construction, fishing, wine making, shoe manufacturing and electronic equipment production all take place in the region. Even the flavors of traditional Provencal cooking speak of this abundance: garlic and olive oil, truffles and almonds, wonderful herbs like savory, rosemary, thyme, bay, basil and safe. Historically, the region has been inhabited at least as far back as the 7^th century BC.  Gradually the name of the town evolved to Toulon.  The Provence region became part of France in 1486 and Charles VIII first established the naval port beginning in 1494.  Toulon continued to be significant to military strategy and campaigns through to the 20^th century.  As of 1974 Toulon became the administrative center and is full of its own personal character with narrow streets, small squares and numerous fountains.

Six of us walked into town together and went through the outdoor market, shared a cup of tea/coffee, and walked around the square. We soon split up and Gary & I went to the Maritime Museum while Barbara shopped.  David found a seat and waited patiently for his wife. 

These adorable sailors asked me to take a picture of them (that's a switch), they were great.

Gary & I  spent about 1 ½ hours at the museum and found it to be a really terrific naval museum. Afterwards, we walked along the waterfront looking at the sailboats and had lunch at one of the outdoor cafes.  It was a beautiful day, again no clouds and about 75.  Tonight we sail for Monte Carlo and the day after we dock in Portofino which is our last stop.

Barcelona, Spain

Although it is one of Spain’s most lively and dynamic cities, Barcelona is really not Spanish at all.  As the capital and cultural hub of the autonomous region of Catalonia, the city has a long and glorious history all its own.  The Catalan language is similar to Spanish, but also has much in common with southern French dialects.  Catalonia was a leading trading power in the Mediterranean during the 14^th and 15^th centuries, with enterprising merchants and bankers, and no feudal remnants whatsoever.  United with the Kingdom of Aragon in the 12^th century the region became part of Spain in 1469 with the marriage of Ferdinand and Isabella.  Today Barcelona is a bustling and cosmopolitan place, a center of experimentation in Politics and the Arts.

We love Barcelona! It is one of the most beautiful cities in the world.  We walked up Las Ramblas, which is a walking street filled with mimes, flower stalls and cafes.  It was a beautiful day, about 75 degrees and not a cloud in the sky.  Antonio Gaudi designed a magnificent church in 1883 that lives up to its name…Gaudy, it's one of the really amazing things to see to Barcelona but is yet to be completed.  Our friends Anna & Joaquin are leaving the boat here, this is their home. They treated us, along with Barbara & David and Carole, to a true Spanish lunch of “paella” before saying “good-bye.”  Below is a picture of them with Gary taken on the terrace of their apartment. We will miss them very much and hope to stay in touch.  We will again visit Barcelona and Anna & Joaquin.  Their granddaughter is an exchange student in River Forest and we promised to call and take her to dinner.

New Propeller

Gary just bought a new prop for his boat, packing may be a problem.

Gibraltar

Although it is less than three square miles in area, the Rock of Gibraltar has become a symbol of durability and permanence.  With its strategic location at the western entrance of the Mediterranean, “the Rock” offers great value as a military strong point.  There is little wonder why it has been such a great source of contention over the centuries.  Europe is only eight miles from Africa at this point, and the Straits are 36 miles long.  Whoever controls Gibraltar and the harbor at its base is in a good position to control the passage between Atlantic and Mediterranean waters.  Despite the short distance across the strait, there is a definite cultural separation between the Mediterranean-Arabic culture to the south and the prevailing Christian European on the north, though regular ferry service allows easy travel.  The rock itself is a natural fortress 1,396 feet high, with a sheer vertical face to the east.  Today the town has a population of about 30,000 inhabitants.  Its ethnic mix reflects the history of its strategic crossroad: Spaniards, Moors, Arabs and British.

Gibraltar is also the site of the Ape’s Den, home of the famous Barbary Apes.  Actually tailless monkeys, the Apes are native to this prong of land, but not to the rest of the Spanish mainland.  Legend has it that Britain will retain the Rock as long as the Apes live here.  At one point during the War, they seemed to be dying out.  Fearful of poor morale at a critical time, Winston Churchill gave the legend a bit of help by bringing in ape-reinforcements from North Africa in 1944.  Today they number about 200.

Six of us hired a minivan to take us on a tour of the island.  We have been here several times before but haven’t gone to the top of the Rock since the first time about 30 years ago. Things are much more expensive here as the currency is now the Euro. Madeira was the same, but then we were back in Africa (Morocco) for one day and, once again, everything was a bargain.  Fortunately, for Gary, it’s Sunday and all the stores are closed. 

Gibraltar is really beautiful.  Our first stop was the “Pillars of Hercules,” (the ancients referred to the Straits as "The Pillars of Hercules), we then went to see the Barbary Apes and one jumped on Gary’s shoulder.  One girl wanted to get a picture with the small one on her shoulder so she backed up to where he was sitting and our driver enticed him with a couple of nuts.  No sooner did he do that when the mother (huge monkey) jumped from the ground on to her head.  We were laughing so hard I barely got the picture.  We also went to St. Michael’s Cave which displayed fantastic stalactites with steps leading from one cavern to another.  A cable car goes to the top of the rock but we went by car.  At the top is the site of a WWII gun emplacement for views of Africa, Spain and the Mediterranean. We also saw the WWII tunnels.  Our tour was about 2 ½ hours and we finished about 3:30.  Looking for a place to eat we came across a beautiful cemetery with those that died in the battle of Trafalgar in 1805. It was just beautiful. We then found a lovely pub and had a traditional English dinner. We walked back to the boat and got back at 7:10.  We had just 20 minutes to spare. It was a wonderful day. Tomorrow is our last day at sea, we are in port each day after that and dock in Civitavecchia (the port of Rome) Saturday, May 7^th.

Starting To Say Good Bye

                                    

Yesterday we spent the day watching the Royal Wedding of William & Kate.  Barbara & David invited several people to their suite at 10:00 in the morning to watch everyone arrive followed by the ceremony at 11:00.  Being British, and staunch Royalists, they were very excited about the marriage and wanted to share the experience.  We stayed for 2 hours then went to the “most traveled passengers” luncheon hosted by the captain.  At our table were Lance & Bill, Mark & Andrea and Michele…great table. When we got back they were just repeating what everyone had already seen.  That evening Barbara had a “farwell” party and invited about 20 people.  The choir had their final performance at 8:00 and sang "we'll meet again, don't know where, don't know when," there wasn’t a dry eye in the place.

Exactly 1 week from today we will be home...can't believe it.  Atmosphere on the ship has changed everyone is exchanging addresses, phone numbers & e-mail addresses.  Only one sea day left (Monday) then we will be in port every day until we leave in Rome.   I have packed 3/4 of one suitcase and Gary the same.  This isn't the fun part, especially trying to fit in 4 months of  souveniers.

Casablanca, Morocco

“You must remember this, a kiss is just a kiss, a sigh is just a sigh…”  Casablanca today is not the quaint provincial oasis of Bogart and Bacall.  It is a vigorous commercial giant and manufacturing center that has grown into one of Africa’s great cities; only Cairo is bigger.  And yet much of the old charm is still there if you know where to look.

The French government established a protectorate over all of Morocco in 1912, which lasted until 1956.  During that period, they greatly expanded education, communications and public welfare.  France was defeated in 1940 by Hitler’s Germany, and their colonies were administered by the Vichy regime; though officially neutral, Vichy was under Germany’s strong influence. The Casablanca conference between Churchill and Roosevelt took place here in January of 1943.  They planned the invasion of Sicily and southern Europe, and decided that the unconditional surrender of Germany was a basic condition of peace.  When the French withdrew from Morocco in 1956, they restored full control to the monarchy, and promised strong economic and diplomatic support.  Since that time the kingdom has become a strong force in arbitrating disputes for the international community.  Old and new seem to live as good neighbors in Casablanca. 

Because of the bombing in Marrakech we received a letter informing us that we maight not stop in Casablanca.  There are 150 people scheduled to take a tour to Marrakech which would be cancelled even if we do stop.  However, they have now said that we are going to dock there and have been warned to go in groups and to stay on the main streets in open areas.  Originally we were going to get a car and go to Rabat, but now we have decided to stay in Casablanca and go to the Medina (Kasbah).  The last time Gary & I were here we were very uncomfortable and felt threatened.  A few months later 9/11 happened.

We took the shuttle to town and went to the Medina.  They sell everything here, mainly caftans and artifacts of every kind.  Small wood carvings, silver bracelets, shoes (tons of shoes) and scarves.  We spent about 4 hours walking around then Gary & I headed back to the boat.  As you can see, we are back in Africa.

“Here’s looking at you , kid.”

Funchal, Madeira

Madeira and its little companion island, Purto Santo, were mentioned by the ancient Roman Author Pliny.  He know about the “Fortunate Isles,” which is what the Romans called the Canaries, and then described his mysterious “Purple Islands” as being about the right position for Madeira.  Madeira was largely left alone until more recent centuries.  Sailors from Genoa noted its position and moved on, but it was the Portuguese who reaped the reward of discovery. Prince Henry the Navigator sent many expeditions into the Atlantic in the early 15^th century and Madeira was one of his first prizes.

Grape vines were imported from Crete and Cyprus, and sugar cane from Sicily.  Many exotic plants were also introduced from ships returning from every corner of the globe.  Madeira grew into a semi-tropical paradise known as the “floating garden”.  The early colonists developed a complex irrigation system of water channels called “levadas,” which are still in use.  They carry water from the mountain tops through the terraced farms, to fields and villages further downhill.  These ingenious aqueducts assured that the local wine and sugar industries would be second to none.

We took the shuttle to town and what a breath of fresh air from the Ivory Coast.  The 6 of us walked all day and thoroughly enjoyed the island.  There were flowers everywhere and not a piece of paper on the ground.  We strolled along the marina, of course, looking at the sailboats.  The last time Gary and I were here, we met a couple that had a boat in the harbor.  They had a small kiosk on the dock selling pictures they had drawn.  The one we bought now hangs in our aft cabin on the boat.  We had lunch at a local restaurant and all had fresh fish along with wine from Madeira.  It rained for quite a while, which is common here, but most of the rain came while we were eating.  There were a lot of embroidery shops selling tablecloths, bed linens and place mats & napkins, all with beautiful patterns. Tonight we sail for Casablanca.   

Dakar, Senegal

The modern port of Dakar lies in one of the world’s most strategic locations.  It is the most westerly point in Africa, and commands the shipping lanes between Western Europe and Brazil or South Africa.  This part of West Africa is lush and green, with several important rivers in a small area.  In this land so close to the Sahara, everything of significance happens along the riverbanks.

The trade in slaves was the most lucrative part of their commerce.  More than 40 million people were eventually shipped to the Americas (mostly South America) from Goree and other ports.  The Ile de Goree, just off Dakar, was the site of one of the first French settlements in Africa and a slaving center from the early 19^th century.  The administrative capital of France’s West African colonial empire, Dakar was a trading site for gold, ivory & leather.

Goree is an attractive place today, with multi color houses from the 18^th century, set off by brightly painted doors and window frames.  Balconies and terraces are blanketed with lovely flowers of every color.  No motor vehicles are allowed on the island.  It is also possible to visit the Slave’s House, as well as the Fortress.  The Historical Museum does an impressive job of recalling the repugnant facts of the slave trade.

Not only were Gary & I here before and experienced the “Door of no Return” on Ile de Goree, but during my working days, my company did an entire program for school age children on the “Middle Passage.” Bill Pinkney, who was the captain of the sailboat that made the trip from Ile De Goree to Brazil, was also the captain of the replica of the Amistad, the infamous slave ship.

Eight of us took the shuttle to the market which is the drop-off place.  We walked around and found it less than endearing.  It is a very dangerous place and already we heard of one couple that had their camera stolen.  We took 2 taxi’s to a village close by and stayed there for about 1 ½ hours.  There was an abundance of leather goods, jewelry and, of course, wood carvings.  There were so many photo opportunities, but they wouldn’t let us take pictures and got very angry if we did.  We left at 9:00 and got back just after 1.  We went to the dining room, had lunch and Barbara, Tess and I went off the ship to look at the crafts set up next to the ship.  Found much of the same we had already seen and I came back after a few minutes. 

The ship leaves Dakar at 5:00 and will pass Ile de Goree on our starboard side.  Once we clear the Bay of Goree, we will alter course to a northerly heading. Tomorrow we will be parallel to the Mauritania coast on our way to Madeira.  Madeira will be very welcome after the Ivory Coast.

Along The Way

We have only 2 weeks before our voyage comes to an end.  Our trip has taken us to some of the most interesting and exotic ports and we have seen many fascinating sights on this journey around the world. We have often said that it’s not the places you have visited but the people you meet along the way.  We have made some great friends since leaving Florida in January, some we met in 2008 and those we met on this cruise.

We met Anna and Joaquin (above) through Barbara & David.  They met last year on the Aurora and became friends.  We took to them immediately and have enjoyed their company immensely.  Joaquim is Spanish and Anna is from the Netherlands. They live in Barcelona and promised that, when we dock, they will take us to the best restaurant for Paella (sp). They leave the ship in Barcelona.

Andrea & Mark (above) are from Scottsdale, Arizona.  They were both in the medical profession but are now retired. They are a great couple and a lot of fun.  Their cabin is a few doors down from ours.  It would be nice to continue our friendship.  My cousin also has a home in Scottsdale, maybe we will visit. 

Barbara and David (above) are from England but live in Cypress for 6 months each year.  David still works but is trying to sell his business.  They did a world cruise last year although on another ship, The Aurora. She is a darling lady and we have enjoyed their company.

Carol (above) is a terrific lady that grew up a block from Gary.  She’s a Chicagoan and has a daughter in Highland Park.  She was kind enough to lend us her overnight case to take on safari.  It will be nice to have to have dinner when we are home and reminisce about this glorious trip.

Sonia (below) is another wonderful lady that was born in Casablanca but now resides in Canada.  She hasn’t been back to Morocco in 35 years and, on this trip, we will be in Morocco in less than a week. We exercise at the same time and see each other every morning.  I hope we will see her again.

We met Lance and Bill (below) on our trip in 2008.  We only spoke once during that entire cruise and only said “hello” when passing in town or on the ship.  We got to know each other on this trip and found that we missed a lot 3 years ago.  They have become great friends and Lance even loaned us his camera when we went on safari.  They live in Southern Illinois very near St. Louis.

Michele (below) is the Hotel Manager on the ship.  We met him during our stop in Equador and have been close since then.  Both he and Gary are motorcycle enthusiasts and Gary took to him immediately. He is has been a wonderful friend and we will miss him very much.

Tema, Ghana

Before 1961 Tema was just a small fishing village but then the powers that be decreed that it would become Ghana’s principal economic harbor, putting the most modern facilities within reach of Accra, the capital. Nearly everything about Ghana is spectacular.  It is one of those places in Africa where people have always wanted to live.  The oldest pottery in the area dates from as early as 4000 B.C.  From the earliest times, life here has seen the extremes of good and bad in human experience. For a relatively small place, Ghana has made a huge impact on the outside world.  From floods of gold, to appeals for freedom and harmony, the people of Ghana have contributed to a more vigorous cosmos.  It’s no accident that they are proud to show their land to others.

Eight of us hired a car to take us to Accra.  It is 20 miles from the ship and took us 2 hours in a van with no air conditioning.  The temperature was about 100 and we were all wringing wet and frustrated by the time we got there.  Barbara wanted to go shopping, but Gary & couldn't bear the thought of standing in those kiosks for 3 hours, after that awful drive, looking for African shirts & wood carvings.  The roads are dirt and in disrepair and the people we saw were living in abject poverty. There is also a big presence of Yellow Fever both here and in Togo.

We saw a casket maker that makes caskets in various shapes & sizes.  For instance, if someone had always wanted to fly, the casket would be in the shape of an airplane.  We saw a cow, a coke bottle, a fish, a lobster, a pineapple & a truck – all caskets. Very strange! We decided to go back to the ship but stopped at a lovely hotel en route to get a coke. We now have 2 days at sea before reaching Dakar, Senegal.  This evening we head westerly and will parallel The Ivory Coast.

Lome, Togo

Lome is the capital and largest city of Togo.  It is located on the Gulf of Guinea and is the country’s administrative and industrial center and its chief port.  The city exports coffee, cocoa, copra and palm kernels.  It also contains an oil refinery. Some of the most popular tourist attractions are the Grand Market and the Voodoo (Fetish) Market.

Eight of us took the shuttle to town and walked around the market.  We had no desire to see the voodoo ceremony where they cut the head off a chicken.  The Fetish Market specializes in the traditional ingredients used by sorcerers, including porcupine skin, wart hog teeth and bird skulls. I found out later from someone who went to the Voodoo village, that it was very put-on and no chicken had his head cut off.   It was about 100 degrees in the shade and we couldn’t wait to get back to the ship.  I did buy another mask and now have one from Indonesia & one from Africa.