Tuesday, April 26, 2011

Dakar, Senegal

The modern port of Dakar lies in one of the world’s most strategic locations.  It is the most westerly point in Africa, and commands the shipping lanes between Western Europe and Brazil or South Africa.  This part of West Africa is lush and green, with several important rivers in a small area.  In this land so close to the Sahara, everything of significance happens along the riverbanks.
The trade in slaves was the most lucrative part of their commerce.  More than 40 million people were eventually shipped to the Americas (mostly South America) from Goree and other ports.  The Ile de Goree, just off Dakar, was the site of one of the first French settlements in Africa and a slaving center from the early 19th century.  The administrative capital of France’s West African colonial empire, Dakar was a trading site for gold, ivory & leather.
Goree is an attractive place today, with multi color houses from the 18th century, set off by brightly painted doors and window frames.  Balconies and terraces are blanketed with lovely flowers of every color.  No motor vehicles are allowed on the island.  It is also possible to visit the Slave’s House, as well as the Fortress.  The Historical Museum does an impressive job of recalling the repugnant facts of the slave trade.
Not only were Gary & I here before and experienced the “Door of no Return” on Ile de Goree, but during my working days, my company did an entire program for school age children on the “Middle Passage.” Bill Pinkney, who was the captain of the sailboat that made the trip from Ile De Goree to Brazil, was also the captain of the replica of the Amistad, the infamous slave ship.
Eight of us took the shuttle to the market which is the drop-off place.  We walked around and found it less than endearing.  It is a very dangerous place and already we heard of one couple that had their camera stolen.  We took 2 taxi’s to a village close by and stayed there for about 1 ½ hours.  There was an abundance of leather goods, jewelry and, of course, wood carvings.  There were so many photo opportunities, but they wouldn’t let us take pictures and got very angry if we did.  We left at 9:00 and got back just after 1.  We went to the dining room, had lunch and Barbara, Tess and I went off the ship to look at the crafts set up next to the ship.  Found much of the same we had already seen and I came back after a few minutes. 
The ship leaves Dakar at 5:00 and will pass Ile de Goree on our starboard side.  Once we clear the Bay of Goree, we will alter course to a northerly heading. Tomorrow we will be parallel to the Mauritania coast on our way to Madeira.  Madeira will be very welcome after the Ivory Coast.

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